The suit is an accepted uniform/trademark of a gentleman in almost all occasions. Well, last day, I happened to see a gentleman in a suit who defied all laws of wearing a suit, though he was wearing one. I am not a fashion guru, but just thought to share some basics on how to handle a suit when you wear the same.
#1: SHOULDERS should be where shoulders are
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A suit line gives a genuine look basically when the shoulder line should end where our shoulder should end. The shoulder line should never exceed the shoulder, this basically happens if you go for a suit in a shop without customizing the same. Always customize as needed the suit you are wearing, we all don't have the perfect model body. The shoulder pad should never go beyond your shoulder. The below image shows in red the wrong shoulder pad.
A custom made Armani suit will give the fine lines and fit,but if you don't have the money keep this point in mind.
#2: SAME WIDTH for lapel and tie
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I am not talking about millimeters, but overall the width of the lapel and tie should be somewhat same; this gives a balanced look. Thin lapels are a modern trend and wide lapels are old fashioned, I would say choose the one which you feel good.
#3: WATCH attitude
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The watch that you wear with the suit should be a good one (I go for an Armani) that improves the overall look and also helps build impression if you have to shake hands or place it on the table for meetings and helps build impression (don't flash it, let others see it naturally).
Look how well the Bulgari watch improves the suit look of Bradley Cooper below
#3: CLEAN than branded
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Just a branded suit won't give an impression, but a clean suit definitely will. If you happen to spill anything on it, dry clean within 48 hours to avoid the stain; 2-3 times dry cleaning a year will ensure that the suit will last longer.The pants of the suit may have lap stains or creases on the crotch area, if so get it cleaned (more important than your jacket cleaning).
Stain will totally spoil the suit look, so avoid having them. Be careful while eating wearing your suit , especially drinking and avoid as much as keeping an ink pen in your suit pocket.
#4: Pocket SQUARE, a mark of elegance
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A pocket square, which is neither matching your tie/fabric material or pattern of suit to bring in contrast helps to add extra polish to your suit look.
The below image shows how to nail a pocket square (don't just stuff it like a handkerchief, but follow this method)
#5: NO collar gaps please
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If after wearing your suit/jacket, you see that the jacket lapel and the collar of your shirt is having a gap in between, that's a poor suit/ an ill fitting one. This fashion faux pas is really bad and avoid this at any cost(see the red circle in the below pic).
#6: DARK, but not always black
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In western cultures, black suits are for funerals. Except for that, opt for a charcoal or dark grey suit which will fit in for more occasions as it goes well with more colors.
#7: THIN matching belts
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No fashion experiments with big belts if you want to look elegant, choose a belt that is thin and same color as your shoes.
#8: SHOE COLOR matching with suit color (not same color)
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Check the below chart to see how this match has to be made, if you don't want the fashion police to catch you.
#9: DOUBLE VENTS in the BACK, modern and yes, more stylish
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The double vents trend have been in demand for a short time for being more flattering for larger figures; moreover the classic "hand in pocket" look is your dream, which double vents will improve with more space.
#10: CASUAL and TRENDY, go for single button peak-lapel jacket
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#11: Formal business look for suits
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There is always a role for suits for formal business meetings or such work related occasions, here the best one to maintain will be a double button, notched jacket; this has style and gentleman looks combined which goes well with the attire that is expected for such meetings.
#12: Savile row fold for pants
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This method of folding suit pant will prevent it from falling off the hanger and thus the pant will be in good shape.
#13: Hand space within the suit
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After wearing the suit, we should be able to slip our hand between the chest and buttoned jacket so that we can smoothly move our hand, it should feel close fitting but that shouldn't prevent hand space.
#14: UNBUTTON before sitting
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Always make sure in order to avoid ruining your suit, unbutton it fully before sitting.
#15: SECOND LAST button at or above navel
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The first/top button of a two button OR the middle button of a three button suit should come just above the navel.
#16: WINDSOR knot for tie
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Always use the classic Windsor knot for the tie, a full or half Windsor depending on the size of your head. Your friends can help to say whether you have a big head (full knot) or a small one (half knot).
#17: UNBUTTON last button of vest
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The three piece suit comes with an inner vest, if going for this look, the last button unbuttoned will give the perfect look; though it may look good for many without unbuttoning the last button.
#18: VEST rules
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Vests have a purpose like adding warmth during cold climates, better use it with single breasted suits so it is visible. Vests add a formal touch for the suit.
#19: Sleeve CUFFS should be visible only half an inch
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The sleeve cuff just behind your watch should be just half an inch (also on non watch wearing hand) and for a harmonious look this length should be same as the length of collar visible from behind.
#20: UN STITCH needed things
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Use a very fine, precise and sharp enough scissors to unstitch the jacket pockets, remove tack stitches of vents,embroidered lapel from jacket's left sleeve. We have to be very careful in this to avoid ripping the suit thus ruining it or rip the fabric or neighboring threads.
#21: LONG socks with suit
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Always use long socks to avoid others seeing your (hairy) legs while sitting down.
#22: DARK ties please
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Your tie should be darker than the dress shirt to make contrast.
#23: LONG suit jacket/top
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Ideally, the suit jacket should be long enough to cover your butt and zipper of your pant.
#24: Tie should JUST REACH/SHORTER than waist band
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#25: Pant LENGTH matters
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Modern style gurus agree for the hem to just reach the top of shoes, but the traditional method (business looks) agree for the hem to cover the lace of the shoes.
#26: SWEATSHIRT if you sweat a lot
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Wear a sweatshirt inside if you sweat a lot. Ensure deep necked sweatshirt so they don't peek out of your shirt destroying the entire suit look.
#26: DIMPLE, the height of elegance
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A simple dimple on the tie, non symmetric one, can add elegance and care free look and add contrast to the otherwise classic suit look thus improving overall suit look. No wonder people will congratulate if you can nail the dimple. Use your finger rather than dimple clip and a good quality tie.
